Naples is one of the very few, or perhaps the only, cities in Italy that I will never visit again. And I have 3 good, ”reasonable” reasons, so to speak, against EVER going back there again. This is not to warn you against going. I actually enjoyed my week-long stay. But then, stupid, why vote against going there ever again?
Because Naples was the first city in Italy that had me feeling overwhelmed, tired, bored and unimpressed at the end of my trip. If it weren’t for a few day trips outside the city, followed by a couple of recovery days, I would’ve simply painted the walls of my dormitory like the girl in “Under the Dome” did, but out of boredom, not because of the creepy alien egg.
First, let’s start with the 3 reasons why Naples is an absolute must-do if you are into travelling. If this post feels like it’s been written by someone with a split personality, I’m fine. It’s just… Naples made me feel things, both mentally, spiritually and physically. Let me explain.
In this guide:
The best and cheapest food in Italy
I’m really sorry if you’ve never had pizza in Naples. It’s divine. This is the birthplace of pizza, and when you take that first bite of a pizza made in this city… it sticks with you forever. No, Naples pizza is not my favourite type of pie. My very top pizza slice was the one from NY Pizza Suprema in New York City. But when it comes to ”pizza” pizza… Naples is unbeatable.
The pies are also reasonably priced. I paid 7 bucks for a slice in NYC, while the whole pie from D’Angeli, a place right across the street from the famous Da Michelle, was 12 euros. Apart from the pizza, Naples has to have the best food in Italy, period. Pasta, pastries, even the beer and the gelato, were the cheapest and very best I’ve had in Italy.
Heck, even the smash burger I’ve had from this place in the central area of town was juicy, rich, perfectly balanced and reasonably priced. It reminded me of that beefy taste of Shake Shack from America, fatty and melty in the mouth.
Naples is a wonder when it comes to food, so do make sure to visit it if you’re into Italian cuisine. And if you’re not… what are you even doing with your life?!
Incredible sights… for a day, maximum
I spent 5 nights in Naples. For the city itself, you don’t really need more than 24 hours to check all the places you can visit. The most important attraction, in my opinion, is the Veiled Christ sculpture in this unassuming chapel in central Naples. Those will be the best 12 euros you’ll spend while in the city. Apart from that, they’ve got a few museums and a port.
You can also go to the galleries, which are these shopping malls that look like the one from central Milan but a bit less crowded and interesting, with a Starbucks instead of the Monclair store and cheaper, so to speak, in general. And there are two medieval castles on the shores, but they were covered by scaffolding during my visit. And… that’s about it!
Splendid one-day trip opportunities
Caserta, Pompeii, Mount Vesuvius, Rome by high-speed train, Sorrento and Positano, Capri and the other islands. These are just some, and I do mean some, of the day-trip chances you’ve got if you make Naples into your cheap stay on your Campania-themed holiday in Italy. Luckily for me, the stay was then animated by two day-trips I’ve made this time around.
And now for the bad part… Naples is a lot, and one week-long trip there will do for a lifetime. Surely the city has its charm and the prices are crazy good, yet it only takes one trip to fulfil your Neapolitan cravings. You can always train from Rome for the delicious pizza, right?
Very dirty
Naples is unfortunately very dirty. There’s no way around it. Every street corner has its mini waste disposal area. It reminds me of New York, but it’s even worse. Some parts of NYC were clean, really clean. Naples seems to be universally dirty, and after a quick search on the web, it seems that the problem is years old and somewhat impossible to solve, because of not one but many reasons that stack up one on top of another. I hope they’ll get this sorted… literally.
As hilly as cities get
I’ve never been to a city where I’d burned myself out physically from going up and down all the time. Unlike Istanbul, where there is an area that’s flat, namely Sultanahmet (or at least partially flat), there is not one single flat street in Naples. Add to that a cheap $20 pair of shoes I’d bought a day earlier from the supermarket (yeah, I know!) and you’re in for a dreadful trip!
Regardless if you’re coming here with good or bad shoes, prepare to climb up and down everywhere. Even going to the store is painful, as there are steps and hills everywhere. I’m 33, so I’m not really complaining, but after 3 days in the city, it does add up. Wear shoes as comfortable as you can find them, and manage your effort accordingly. Uhm… good luck?!?
Boring
Naples is not dangerous, not sketchy, there aren’t that many pickpockets, and you can surely go about at night with no problem. The thing is, after a day or two, it gets boring, period. There is no significant attraction besides the Christ sculpture. And you’re done seeing it in 15 minutes or less. So yes, go to Naples for the food and the cheap stays, but visit the places around Naples for an unforgettable experience. If you’re just in and out of the city, that’s fine. If you want to see the surrounding areas, stay for as long as you want, as the hotels are cheap and regularly good, and the food is delicious and reasonably priced.
And to end it on a dreadful note, coffee in Naples is horrible. Nobody cares. They let the water go and go, and when it gets to you, the cappuccino is actually watery but still very bitter and strong coffee mixed with warm milk that’s been under the frother for 3-5 seconds. It is cheap, yes, but you can’t really drink it. Go for espresso and that’s that, maybe? I don’t know but… don’t get your hopes up.
Madonna!
